Why an RV?
Empennage Attach
QB Wings
Aft/Center Fuselage
Forward Fuselage
Cockpit 1
Cockpit 2
Cockpit 3
Tip up Canopy 1
Tip up Canopy 2
Tip up Canopy 3
Avionics/Panel 1
Avionics/Panel 2
Avionics/Panel 3
Avionics/Panel 4
Tricycle Gear
Engine/Prop 1
Engine/Prop 2
Cowling 1
Cowling 2
Ram Air
Last 10 Percent
Last 5 Percent
Last 3 Percent
Last 1 Percent
Phase 1
Phase 1 pg. 2
Phase 2
P-Mag Install
EFIS Flight Logs
Tips & Mods
Fine Living
Avionics Manuals
N447RV Documents
Helpful Builder Docs
FAA Documents
Contact Information

The Boo

QB Wings

7/24/03 The QB wings arrived today.  The crate was completely smashed, all the way around.  Not only that but the box has arrows indicating orientation and they obviously didn't pay any attention to that.  There were footprints all over the box and evidence of something very heavy sitting on top.  We inspected the contents thoroughly.  I called Vans and they said that the wings were very strong, to make note of the box damage on the bill of lading but to accept if they look acceptable.  The only noticeable damage was some scraping on the skins where the wings had shifted.  I accepted the delivery.  Clay, Ed and Barry came to my aid the get the boxes out of the truck.  Turned out two people can Easily carry the wings and second box.  Thanks guys, I got the Kamado moved without you!

7/25/03 Today I built a carrier for the wings.  I used the plans from Dan Checkoway's website, Thanks Dan, your website is very informative and I consult it regularly.  Here are the wings in their new home.  The only thing you have to worry about when constructing the carrier is that you have to pay attention to the orientation of the curve of the wing root on the opposite end of the spar holder.  Good wheels are nice, like Dan says, you worry less.

8/24/03 Began work on the QB wings.  I'm starting with the aileron bellcrank and the pushrods.  I have yet to figure out a good way to drill out the brass bushings to proper size.


8/25/03 I remembered that my drill press came with a vertical vice.  It was trivial to drill the bushings with that.  Mounted the bellcrank into the wings.  You will have to remove the bolts retaining the bellcrank mounts to get the bellcrank in place. 

8/26/03 Futzed around getting the heated pitot tube and assorted mounting hardware ready.

8/27/03 Began prep work for the aileron mounts.

9/6/03 Spent the past week in Birmingham England getting another one of our retail stores opened.  Finally getting some work done.  Finished the aileron mounts.  Mounted the aileron pushrods into the wings.  I also bought another torque wrench which is capable of torquing the smallest nut/bolts in the kit.  I realized that most of the nut/bolts that I've placed so far have been over-torqued.  I will replace all of them.

Don't forget when making the aileron mounts to inspect the rivet callouts very carefully.  One of the rivets is flush mounted where it attaches to the rear spar.

9/7/03 Spent the whole day getting things together on the wings.  Mounted the aileron mounts, aileron brace and flap brace.  I decided to use a self-etching primer instead of the alodine/epoxy primer since these items will not be sealed in the wing and theoretically I can see if there is any corrosion and access it without tearing the wing apart.  I also began placing the aileron brackets on the QB ailerons.  The plans for the outboard brackets show that the middle inboard bolt should have a nutplate installed.  In fact the countersunk nutplate holes were already drilled and there is a small access hole to facilitate mounting the nutplate.  In reality there is not enough room to rivet the nutplate in place and I found that the kit comes with enough hardware to mount it with a simple nut and bolt.  Also, the nutplates were not in the kit!  So I'm just assuming they wanted me to ignore the plans :)

9/13/03 Decided to attach the Gretz Bracket kit for my heated pitot tube.  It took about 5 hours to mount.  It looks pretty good.  I purchased the paintable extension and I may have it chromed so it matches the pitot tube.  I also started mounting the left aileron.

9/15/03 Decided to mount the flaps using the "cut the piano hinge" route.  I just can't see drilling a hole into the flap brackets.  Here's a photo of the ailerons semi-mounted.  Does any one else have problems getting the bolt, washers and spacers in place on the aileron pushrod?  I have to devise a better way.  For the time being I'm leaving them off as I'm sure I'll have to remove them several times.

9/21/03 It's been a busy week at work.  No time for play, or sleep for that matter.  Decided to get the flap hinges mounted today.  I was very careful to have the trailing edges of the ailerons and flaps match and that came out well.  Here's a shot of the flap hinge with the tabs cut out.  I simply cut as close to the center of the hinge as possible.  The second photo shows the bends in the hinge rod, on the wrong side.  I did this for accessibility.  Final assembly will place them on the other side secured by wire.

I also went through the wings and tightened all nuts/bolts to proper torque values and added a dab of 'torque seal' to all of them.  QB wings come with the fuel tank attachment z-brace bolts un-torqued.  Ran the pitot line through the wings and will fix it into place when my flaring tool comes Monday.  Here's a shot of the wings too.

4/10/04 Well I haven't done anything to the wings in a long time and since I'm considering putting them on next weekend I thought I would get to some items to get them ready to mate with the fuselage.

I decided to install the Trutrak Autopilot.  The TT instructions are fairly vague.  They only really show you pictures of the finished installation.  None of the necessary nuts and bolts are included, which sucks because now I have to place another small order just to keep going.  First thing I did was get some clear tubing, slice it down the center and fit it into the opening where the pushrod comes through so it doesn't get all scratched up.

Second issue I had with the TT instruction is that you get plans for the RV7 showing a left wing installation.  BUT, the bag they sent contains the mounting brackets for a right wing installation.  Of course I found that out AFTER I had drilled the bellcrank for the left wing.  Oh well one little hole in that isn't going to cause any problems.  Just put the whole thing back together and disassemble the right and do it all over again.  Thanks TT!

The next issue is that there are no callout for bolts.  I'm presuming that since this whole thing moves that I'll need bolts with holes and castle nuts, but I'm not sure.  Also, since the motor housing is tapped all the way in you'll need to have bolts which are threaded all the way to the bolt head in order to secure it. 

4/11/04 Time to get the TT elevator installation completed while I'm at it.  I'll leave it here in the wings section so you can see both installations.  First mark where the mount will go and drill out the 4 rivets already in place.  Clamp brace into place and back drill.  There was some question as to whether you should rivet the bottom of the brace to the aft floor skin.  I decided it would be better, and stronger.

No drill out the hole in the thingamabober.

Now there's a problem getting this whole contraption to work.  Seems that there needs to be a standoff here because there is too much interference.  I think I can "extend" the bolt by placing an aluminum tube extension and a longer bolt.  I'm gonna call TT.

4/15/04 I've arrange to have a few cronies come over to the house on Sunday to mount the wings.  Have made a checklist of things to do before then; trim the rear spar, remove flaps and ailerons, etc.
4/17/04 As I'll have some friends over tomorrow to help me mate the wings, it's time to finish up some work so it all goes smoothly.  First cut the rear spar attach point to plans.  Then remove the ailerons and flaps.  Mark the attachment holes onto the wings per the plans too.


4/18/04 I want to thank Clay, Michael, Eric, Mark, Barry and David for coming over today to help me clean out my fridge (and mate the wings).  Everything went very smoothly and now this bird has some wings!!!  Car is not outside for a while.  Two people held the outer portion of the wing while two held the inner section.  Slide it in and giggle it a bit and she goes in with no problem.  Stuck some hardware store bolts in it and she's done.  Couldn't have taken more than 30 minutes for both wings.  I did all the hard work, putting the bolts in.  Thanks again!

After everything was together I started checking the incidence etc.  Everything was almost perfect!  Tomorrow I'll finish up.  BTW.  I didn't follow the plans per the tank attachment brace.  I simply bolted it onto the fuselage beforehand using the existing rivet holes as drill points.  It mated up perfectly.   Time for a beer.

4/19/04 Ok, now it's time for the stressful job; drilling the rear spar attachment and fuel tank attach bracket.

First I made sure the plane was level.  Your gonna see a lot of shots of the level.  Boring.

Then I stuck a non-elastic nylon cord from the center of the rear horizontal plate and made sure the wing tips and centers of the wings were the same distance.  They were exact!

 I dropped plumb bobs down at four points to judge the alignment of the front of the wings.  Dropping a chalk line in between all the marks on the floor showed that the outer wings were 1/16" off.  Not too bad.  Adjusted the wings by clamping the tail down and gently nudging the outer portion of the wings rearward.  That brought it to within 1/32.  Good enough.  Try as I might, without a second person it's tough to do.  Ignore the blue circles, we were testing the fit just after putting the wings on yesterday for shits and giggles.

Next I taped a 3 inch block of wood to my level at the appropriate place.  Vans doesn't "exactly" say where to place the rear, or the front of the level.  They just say "a little" and "over rear spar web".  Well the web is 3/4".  Anyway I made beacoup measurements just to be sure.  I ended up adjusting one wing downwards at the rear spar about 1/8 inch.  The other wing was pretty good.  These are shots before leveling.  After leveling about 85% of the wing was dead nuts.  The other part was off by .1 degrees.  I'll call that satisfying.  Put clamps on the rear spar so it doesn't move while drilling the other.

Now for the hair raising part, drilling the holes.  You only get one chance.  First I drilled a small pilot hole about 1/8 inch deep so the 1/4 inch bit wouldn't travel when I started to bore through.  I used a 12 inch inflexible bit so my drilling would be as straight and perpendicular as possible.  Then final drill it to 5/16.  It came out perfect and in fact the bolts had to be slightly tapped into place for a really nice no-slop fit.

Next I drilled the fuel tank attach brackets.  As I indicated in a prior note.  I had already mounted the bracket to the fuselage.  The holes lined up perfectly centered.  Back drilled with 1/4 inch drill bit with the drill in the gap between fuselage and wing root, as there is plenty of room.  You stick the nutplates on after removing the wing later.  Time for another beer.  I'm glad that's over.


Time to work on the flaps.  I've got a hankerin to get these wings Done.  The gap between flaps and fuselage body is pretty good.  I only have to take off a little less than 1/8 on the left flap at the front. 

Time to drill the right flap pushrod egress hole.  I really don't like cutting into a perfectly good fuselage.  First I drilled a couple of holes; one on the side at the bottom of the little oval opening and one in the bottom at the hole that's left open.  Then it's trial and error, over and over until you get it just right.  I had to add one washer to get the retaining nut to clear the sidewall enough.  Plans say you can add only 'one'.  Here's is a shot of the beginning of the drilling process, this picture comes from the left hole which I haven't finished yet.  Here you can see two holes on the bottom because you are going to clear away more than this.  The second one is always easier.

Finished right side hole.  Second pic is from the bottom side looking up.

Closed flap and 40 degrees of flap.  Plenty of clearance.  Now I'm wondering what is used as a flap limiter???  Gotta read the plans.

4/21/04 Completed the left flap pushrod egress hole.  Needless to say the hole is smaller than the right side but not by much.  Decided now was a good time to use some 'perm' Loctite and get the pushrod attached to the flaps.  Adjusted the pushrod lengths to match and made the flap skin overlap on the bottom skin flush.  Thing of beauty I tell you.  Here's some meaningless shots.

Next was to begin the installation of the wing root fairing.  Looks like I'll have to do some trimming because the minimum clearance is 3/16ths and most of the faring sits at 1/8th.  I wonder if that's close enough.  Gotta read the plans (RTFM)!  Stole Dan's idea and used the existing tank nutplate underneath the wing as a starter point and then clecoed the top.  Works nice.  The first shot is from the underside, kinda weird angle but you get the picture.  Things are starting to get hot in the kitchen.


Duckworks.  That name spells terror in the minds of builders who have never gouged a huge hole in a perfectly fine leading edge.  Dammit, just cut it, which is what I did.  Lay on the template and cut the center hole in the template with a very sharp box cutter, enough to make an impression in the leading edge.  This is my cut line.  Mark it with a sharpie.  Get out the angle grinder and go to town.

Now file for a very long time until it looks perfect. 

Next step is to mount the rib template onto some cardboard.  Just use double sided carpet tape.  Trim the template.  I had to cut some off the top rear section of the template because it was larger than the rib.  Bend it in half and shove it against the inner most rib and mark the two holes.  It's not really that critical where you place the template and mark the holes as there is plenty of room to adjust the light mount to aim it later.  Install the nutplates with provided pop rivets.

I installed the HID ballast on the inside of the outermost rib.  I didn't want to drill holes in the spar.  I mounted it so the wiring it on the top.  I'll have to come back through here and tidy up the wiring later.

Cutting the Plexiglas was very easy on the band saw.  I covered the plexi in that new sticky saran wrap stuff.  It leaves a sticky film which comes of readily with acetone.  But hey it protects it great.  When I countersunk the plexi I had to go much deeper than I thought to accept the dimple on the skins.  Came out great though.

Wile test fitting I noticed that the bulb is a bit loose in the holder.  I placed a bead of High Temp RTV around the edge to make a nice firm fit.  I don't want this $380 bulb smacking around in it's mount.  It's the red stuff.

Now here's the trick to getting all this crammed into the small hole in the leading edge.  First place the brace in the wing and tighten it down.  You can alter the aim later after testing.  Next, insert the plexi.  It only goes in one way and It's damn difficult to explain here (I forgot already).  But it WILL go in.  You may have to bend it ever so slightly to keep from scratching.  Next, slide it all the way to the left inside the wing if installing in the right wing.  Now add the bulb and connect the wires.  You'll have to shift the plexi to the other side to be able to access the bulb screws (which I was shorted in my package, which cost $450!  You think that they would be giving screws away at that price.  Not even a spare.)

8/6/04 I haven't done anything to the wings in some time.  I finally decided to run 3/4" conduit in the location vans recommends; behind the spar at the lower corner of the first lightening hole.  It's pretty easy to run a unibit for the exposed ribs.  For the ribs which are already covered with skin I borrowed a 3/4" unibit (max size) from David R. and purchased an extension from Home Shlepo.  I pilot drilled a #30 holes through the hidden ribs then shoved the unibit through.  Worked like a charm.  Pulling the conduit through the holes is another thing all together.  Wrap some string around the end and just tug on it till it comes all the way through.

12/26/04 David Richardson stopped by this morning and we had a nice breakfast at Norms.  Then it was on to the last wing skin left to do.  We shot the remaining 4 ribs and I can now call the wings done, with the exception of tips and mounting and the other 10%.  Thanks David.  Here's one of those, "Yes, I did build this contraption" pictures.

12/27/04 I did this work some time ago but not even sure I documented it.  Anyway, Bob Barrow from Melbourne Australia (I've *got* to go there sometime) and I swapped a few emails about the HID lights.  Here's how I have them installed.

Overall look.

Ground is terminated locally and wires held in place with wire-ties and Adel clamps.

Electrical runs are wire-tied to the lightening holes and with Adel clamps.

The "Doohickey".


Home | Why an RV? | Choices | Search | Empennage | Empennage Attach | QB Wings | Bulkheads | Aft/Center Fuselage | Forward Fuselage | Cockpit 1 | Cockpit 2 | Cockpit 3 | Tip up Canopy 1 | Tip up Canopy 2 | Tip up Canopy 3 | Avionics/Panel 1 | Avionics/Panel 2 | Avionics/Panel 3 | Avionics/Panel 4 | Firewall | Tricycle Gear | Engine/Prop 1 | Engine/Prop 2 | Cowling 1 | Cowling 2 | Baffling | Ram Air | Last 10 Percent | Last 5 Percent | Last 3 Percent | Last 1 Percent | Phase 1 | Phase 1 pg. 2 | Phase 2 | P-Mag Install | Videos | EFIS Flight Logs | Tips & Mods | Links | Fine Living | Avionics Manuals | N447RV Documents | Helpful Builder Docs | FAA Documents | Contact Information

 For problems or questions regarding this web contact me.
Last updated: 07/06/05.